I first read about this new kid on the
block in Chinese cuisine on Poorna’s blog. She had visited it with friends and
wrote a review. Later, I read about it in Times of India and a few other
places. Like many, I knew it made good food and had a tie-up with the popular and
modest eatery from old Chinatown of Kolkata- Tung Nam. So the perception was
that all the popular dishes of Tung Nam and more were being served in a better
ambiance in south Kolkata (near Southern Avenue).
I was later clarified by Prithvish Chakravarti, the owner of Tak Heng, on Facebook. He was on my friend
list for some time and I was chatting with him about the place one evening. He
informed that Tak Heng had no association with Tung Nam. It never had. It only
so happened that he had requested his good friend Michael who hails from the
family that runs Tung Nam to operate the kitchen of Tak Heng in the initial
days and train the kitchen staff, which Michael did. As a result, some of the
best dishes of Tung Nam is available here as part of a menu which serves a wide
range of Oriental food.
He also informed that in Tak Heng, no
MSG and not much of additives and colours were used as well, unlike most
Chinese eateries in the city. So, the taste of food in Tak Heng was not sharp,
rather subtle. I am much interested in Chinese food where MSG (Monosodium Glutamate, popularly known
as ajino moto) is not used as there is a lot of negative reports about
its harmful effects. It is what makes you thirsty after a hearty Chinese meal
if not used in moderation. Many will argue that MSG enhances the flavour of food
and getting rid of it makes it less palatable, but that’s actually a myth.
That chat ended with an invitation to
Tak Heng. So, sometime back, I I turned up one evening with blogger friend
Indrajit Lahiri. It is located on Raja Basanta Roy Road,
near Thyagaraj Hall. I found it by walking down Lake View Road from the end of Jugal’s
sweet shop on Rasbehari Avenue
and taking the last left hand turn before Vivekananda Park.
|
Blogger Indrajit Lahiri in front of Tak Heng |
We were welcomed by Prithvish who is an
entrepreneur and into manufacturing machines and a foodie by passion. It’s the
common interest of food that he shares with his wife that resulted in Tak Heng
last year.
Like it is a trend in south Kolkata, a
part of the ground floor of a house has been converted into the restaurant. The
erstwhile leaving room is now the dining area which seats about twenty six
persons. The décor is minimalistic with Chinese motifs and the seating is
casual.
Our sojourn kicked off with chimney soup.
Now, this is a rare delicacy in the Chinese foodscape of the city. I had known
only one restaurant serving it- Eau Chew. It’s a flavourful clear
soup that can have a variety of chicken/fish/ seafood and vegetables served in
a large Mongolian hotpot. Ours was Chef’s Special Chimney
Soup containing prawn, crab, squid, fish, mushroom, veggies and chicken as
well. The natural flavours of all the ingredients blended beautifully to create
a sublime broth that brought a rare pep before a meal. A sure recommendation
for those who love seafood and appreciate natural flavours. This comes in a portion
for four persons at Rs 900 plus taxes. Paying the steep price won’t be a
regret.
|
Chef’s Special Chimney Soup |
Next came Oriental Mango Salad. And I
was bowled over by this tangy delight with a dash of sweetness, made with cubes
of mango, cabbage
leaf and coriander leaf bathed in a transparent broth.
This was just what the palate longs for in a hot and humid weather and a
perfect starter for a hearty, relaxed meal.
|
Oriental Mango Salad |
The Fried Chiken Wonton was not bad but
couldn’t do much for me thanks to the relish of the mango salad. When it comes
to wonton, I am all for steamed varieties and pan fried/ fried versions have
never impressed me. This crispy dish had a thin filling of chicken and I thought it would have
been a more enjoyable with a thicker filling.
|
Fried Chiken Wonton |
The King Crab in Chilli Oyster Sauce came next and the size of the crab was large enough to
draw attention. A rare find in Kolkata eateries, Prithvish revealed that he
owes the credit of sourcing such large crabs to his supplier who mainly
services export orders. The crab had already been broken to facilitate our
going ahead with it. The flesh was tender and delicious in a thin, spicy gravy
full with vegetables. Easily the dish of the evening and wins a recommendation.
The picture shows a standard portion that comes at Rs 650 plus taxes.
|
King Crab in Chilli Oyster Sauce |
Prithvish told us that all the sauces-
served on the table and used in the cooking- are made in-house. They also keep
the saltiness (which also comes from soy sauce in Chinese cooking) on the lower
side in their dishes. These two combined is one of the reasons behind the
signature old school Chinese taste of Tak Heng which feels quite different from
the Chinese eateries in the city, including the old and the new Chinatown.
|
Sweet Vineagar (left) and Nam Jim, a Thai dipping sauce (Right) |
Tak Heng serves whole fish apart from
the familiar fish dishes and one such landed at our table. It was fish in a special
sauce- a whole beckti in a thin, tangy sauce served
with rice and broccoli. Tak Heng uses only beckti and Prthvish believes the
basa fish, common to most of the restaurants now, doesn’t even compare with
beckti on the taste front.
The fish is served with some rice and
broccoli. It was fresh and tasteful, but the tang paired with a dash of sweetness overpowering the spicing was
the reason it didn’t appeal to my palate as much as I expected it to. It was
not tart but. My humble suggestion for the chef was to tone down the sourness
and enhance the spiciness. That said, a customer can feel free to customize it
to his/her palate by placing a request at the time of placing order.
The main course was Burnt Ginger Fried Rice and Singagpore Meifoon (chicken). On the side was Chicken
Mushroom Babycorn and Prawn in Hot Garlic Sauce. The slight smoky flavour of the chicken fried rice
complimented the side dishes. Frankly speaking, after the fabulous crab, these
two didn’t impress, though I must say they were decent. I liked the chicken preparation. At the cost of
repeating myself on this blog let me say that that I love mushroom and I find
Kolkata not offering enough choices for mushroom-lovers. Juicy, boneless
chicken, mushroom and babycorn cooked in a thin, light-coloured gravy brought out
a subtle flavour which won over my palate. The ideal dish if you would like
something not spicy (for a change) yet flavourful on the side. It earns a recommendation!
I realize the number of recommendations is looking higher than usual but this
place merits it.
|
Burnt Ginger Fried Rice |
|
Singagpore Meifoon (chicken) |
|
Chicken Mushroom Babycorn |
The Prawn in Hot Garlic Sauce, with jumbo prawns in
a thick, spicy gravy, to be fair, was not bad, but I didn’t feel any subtle difference.
I was probably too full for that. It is made of authentic Cantonese hamei sauce
and much less spicy than its Tung Nam version.
|
Prawn in Hot Garlic Sauce |
We sincerely wished to skip the dessert as we
couldn’t take anything else, but Prithvish earnestly requested us to try the
dessert and asked us to guess what it was made of. I am not good at guessing food ingredients,
but Indrajit, who has studied hotel management, gave up too. Pritvish revealed that it was called Sankaya- a Thai custard pudding made
of pumpkin, jaggery, coconut and duck egg. I don’t like pumpkin, but couldn’t
help finishing it, it was so delicious! It paired well with the scoop of vanilla
ice cream served with it. Can’t help, this deserves a recommendation too.
|
Sankaya |
|
The chef (Left) and Prithvish Chakravarti |
The prices are premium (Pocket pinch Rs
900 for two) but I was told that all the portions suffice two persons. It is
full on weekends leading to a queue outside, so reservation would be wise.
Address: P524 Raja Basanta Roy Road, near
Thyagaraj Hall and Southern Avenue
Phone: 033 40647400/ 40608400
#TakHeng #ChineseCuisine #OrientalFood
#KolkataChineseFood #TungNam
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